The Moles of Oaxaca

Askari Mateos
China, France and Mexico are the countries with the greatest gastronomic versatility in the world. In our country as well as an admirable biodiversity and pluri-cultural richness, which in its pre-Hispanic past left us archeological remains, and from the colonial times architecture, the state of Oaxaca also delights the palates of all with its enormous gastronomy.
Mole is one of the most delicious and interesting dishes in the world because its preparation involves a composite of ingredients which make each mole different from the others. Everyone has their own recipe, but Oaxaca is the epicenter of this explosion of variety that has transcended borders, enchanting millions of palates in the whole world. Those who
come to Oaxaca and do not eat mole, were never here.

The History of Mole

Old tales tell of the discovery that the Aztecs combined different chilies, tomato, cacao, vanilla and spices, which they ate with turkey. This dish was called molli, a Nahuatl word that means sauce. In this way, added to the great majority of its ingredients are of Mexican origin and the stone metate where the ingredients are ground is pre-Hispanic, we can state that mole is of pre-conquest origin.

Although it was the mole of the state of Puebla that was first documented, there is no certainty that was its true origin. However, a very well known ledged tells how Sor Andres de la Asuncion of the Santa Rosa Convent in Puebla, presented the firs mole thanks to a divine wind that left many of the spices in the pot where she was preparing a dish for the Viceroy Tomas Antonio de la Cerda y Aragon Marquee de La Laguna.

The 7 Moles

What is true is that Oaxaca is the place with the most variety of moles; coloradito, rojo, mancha manteles, verde, Amarillo, chicilo and negro.
For Iliana de la Vega Arnaud, who has cooked mole for more than 38 years and has taught its preparation for 15, it was the Spanish who impressed a good part of the touch that now makes mole so exquisite. “It was a natural evolution of the dish”.

In the restaurant El Naranjo, Iliana de la Vega prepares the seven different moles. These are her recipes and commentaries for each one.

Coloradito: It has a brick red color and a simple taste. Its ingredients are: chili ancho, chili pasilla, tomato, garlic, salt sesame, almonds, cinnamon, oregano, and sugar.

Mole Rojo: This is spicier and with a more defined flavor. Its ingredients are: Chocolate, chili guajillo, chili ancho, onion, tomato, garlic, oregano, cinnamon, pecans, peanuts and sesame.

Mole Mancha Manteles: Simple to prepare, but with a strong flavor of chili ancho. Its ingredients are: tomato, garlic, onion, thyme, oregano, salt, pepper, cloves, almonds and chili ancho. What makes this mole special is that it is served with sautéed sliced plantains and pineapple.

Mole Verde: This is very light and has a very herbal flavor. Its ingredients are: green tomatillo, green tomato, green chili, onion, garlic, cumin, black pepper, cloves. It is thickened with corn dough. It gets it aroma and flavor from hoja santa, epazote and parsley. It is served with chayotes, green and white beans.

Mole Amarillo: This mole has an interesting flavor. Its ingredients are: green tomato, green tomatillo, onion, garlic, cumin, black pepper, cloves, chilcoxle, chili ancho, chili guajillo, and chili costeño. This mole is also thickened with corn dough and to give it flavor and aroma hoja santa leaves, cilantro, and pitiona are added at the end. It is said that if it is served with chicken hoja santa leaves should be added, if it is prepared with pork cilantro and if it is game or beef it goes with pitiona. It is served with spring onions, lemon, oregano, salt and slices of chili de agua.

Mole Chichilo: Is a very spectacular mole in its preparation. Its ingredients are: chili chilguacle negro, chili pasilla, chili mulatto, green tomatillo, tomato, marjoram, allspice, black pepper and cloves. It is thickened with corn dough. To give it the essential touch tortillas and the seeds of all the chilies are toasted until ash and then added to the dish.

This gives it a strong flavor of chili and ash. This mole is very different in its flavor and is not appreciated by all palates. Its aroma comes from avocado leaves. It is served with chayote and green beans and it is accompanied with spring onions, lemon, oregano, and slices of chili de agua.

Mole Negro: The most complex of moles (Iliana uses 34 ingredients), a little of everything. It has six kinds of chilies and their toasted seeds; chilguacle negro, mulatto, pasilla, ancho, guajillo, and chilpocle; plantains, ginger, onion, tomato, green tomatillo, cloves, black pepper, allspice, squash seeds, almond, pecans, sesame and peanuts, bread, tortillas, marjoram, avocado leaves, oregano, thyme, cumin, cinnamon, chocolate, sugar, salt etc.

For the chef of El Naranjo, mole is a complex sauce that was born of a perfect combination. In none of the moles, black or red should chocolate be the dominant flavor. She adds that the meat is not important; it is only the vehicle for serving the mole. It can be served with chicken, pork, beef, armadillo or iguana.

How to enjoy a good mole

The hands can be used for mole, take up your tortillas and go at it directly. It is usually accompanied by rice and not a good too sweet fruit water, Jamaica is ideal or maybe a beer or a light wine like malbec or merlot, so that they do not distract from the flavor.

http://www.elnaranjo.com.mx/